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Crested Geckos

Crested Gecko Care Guide

New to reptiles? Crested geckos (Correlophus ciliatus), also known as eyelash geckos, are a wonderful choice for first-time reptile owners and experienced keepers alike! With their adorable eyelashes, beautiful colors, and entertaining personalities, it's easy to see why they have become one of the most popular pet geckos.

Crested geckos are relatively easy to care for, have simple dietary requirements, and are full of personality. From their impressive jumping abilities to their amusing habit of licking their eyeballs, these little geckos are sure to keep you entertained!

Whether you're bringing home your very first crested gecko or adding another to your reptile family, we're here to help you get started. Below, you'll find everything you need to know about providing a healthy, comfortable home for your new gecko.

At FramsChams, we want you to enjoy your new gecko as much as we enjoy ours!

A Little About Crested Geckos

Crested geckos are native to New Caledonia, a group of tropical islands in the South Pacific, east of Australia. They naturally inhabit tropical forests, where they spend much of their time climbing through vegetation and resting among branches and leaves.

The species was originally described in 1866 but was thought to be extinct until it was rediscovered in 1994. Since then, crested geckos have become one of the most popular captive-bred reptiles in the hobby.

Crested geckos are crepuscular, which means they are most active around sunrise and sunset. They typically spend much of the daytime resting and become more active as evening approaches. This is when you'll see them exploring, jumping, hunting, and showing off their entertaining personalities!

Housing & Enclosure Setup

Crested geckos are arboreal, which means they spend most of their time climbing rather than living on the ground. A tall enclosure with plenty of climbing opportunities is essential.

For one adult crested gecko, we recommend an enclosure measuring at least 18" x 18" x 36". Larger enclosures are always welcome!

Your gecko's enclosure should include:

  • Branches, vines, and cork bark for climbing.

  • Artificial or live plants for hiding and security.

  • Multiple resting spots throughout the enclosure.

  • Good ventilation.

  • A shallow water dish.

For substrate, paper towels are an easy, inexpensive option that makes cleaning and monitoring your gecko simple. Naturalistic and bioactive setups are also wonderful options when properly maintained.

Housing individually: We recommend keeping crested geckos separately. Males should never be housed together because they can fight and seriously injure one another. Even females can experience competition and stress when housed together.

 

Shop Our Recommended Crested Gecko Supplies!

Getting ready to bring home a crested gecko? We've put together a collection of some of our favorite products to help you create a comfortable, enriching home for your new pet.

From enclosures and lighting to climbing accessories, plants, feeding ledges, and other essentials, you'll find products we recommend to make setting up your gecko's habitat a little easier.

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Temperature & Lighting

One of the advantages of keeping crested geckos is that they do not require the high temperatures associated with many other reptiles.

Recommended temperatures:

  • Daytime: 72–78°F

  • Nighttime: 65–72°F

  • Avoid prolonged temperatures above 82°F.

Crested geckos are sensitive to overheating. Consistently high temperatures can cause serious stress and health problems.

Most homes provide suitable temperatures without supplemental heating. If additional heat is needed, always use a thermostat-controlled heat source.

Crested geckos do not require intense lighting, but low-level UVB can be beneficial. Provide plenty of shaded areas so your gecko can choose where to spend its time.

A consistent 10–12 hour day/night lighting cycle is recommended.

Humidity & Water

Crested geckos need humidity, but their enclosure should not remain constantly wet.

A good humidity cycle is:

  • After misting: 70–80%.

  • Between mistings: Allow humidity to drop to approximately 50–60%.

Mist the enclosure in the evening when your gecko becomes active. Depending on your enclosure and room conditions, a light morning mist may also be needed.

A digital hygrometer is helpful for monitoring humidity.

Crested geckos often drink water droplets from leaves and enclosure walls after misting. However, a shallow water dish with fresh, clean water should always be available. Clean and refill it daily.

Remember: Good ventilation and a daily drying period are just as important as maintaining humidity.

Feeding & Nutrition

Feeding crested geckos is easy! A high-quality, commercially prepared complete crested gecko diet provides the nutrition they need and should make up the foundation of their diet.

We recommend reputable brands such as:

These powdered diets are mixed with water to create a smooth paste containing the protein, vitamins, and minerals your gecko needs.

Feeding schedule:

  • Hatchlings and juveniles: Offer fresh food daily or every other day.

  • Adults: Offer fresh food approximately 3 times per week.

Follow the manufacturer's mixing instructions and remove uneaten food before it spoils, generally within 24–48 hours.

What about insects?

Live insects are not required when feeding a complete commercial gecko diet, but they make an excellent supplement and provide enrichment through natural hunting behavior.

Some great feeder options include:

  • Silkworms

  • Crickets

  • Dubia roaches

  • Black soldier fly larvae

Offer appropriately sized, gut-loaded insects once or twice per week. Feeders should be no larger than the space between your gecko's eyes.

Dust insects with an appropriate calcium supplement, following the supplement manufacturer's directions and taking your UVB setup into consideration.

Watching your crested gecko hunt down a cricket or silkworm is incredibly entertaining!

Handling & Temperament

Crested geckos are generally gentle and can become comfortable with regular, patient handling.

Give your new gecko time to settle into its enclosure before beginning regular handling. Start with short sessions and allow your gecko to move between your hands rather than grabbing or restraining it.

These little guys are excellent jumpers! Handle them while seated or over a soft, secure surface to prevent injuries if they leap unexpectedly.

A word about their tails: Crested geckos can drop their tails when frightened or extremely stressed. Unlike leopard geckos, their tails do not grow back. A tailless crested gecko can live a perfectly healthy life and is affectionately known as a "frog-butt"!

Shedding

Crested geckos shed their skin regularly as they grow. Most will eat their shed skin, so you may never actually see it happen!

Proper humidity and plenty of branches, foliage, and textured surfaces help your gecko shed successfully.

Occasionally, shed skin can become stuck around the toes. If you notice retained shed, review your humidity levels and consult a reptile veterinarian if it does not resolve.

Females, Egg Laying & Reproduction

Something many new owners don't realize is that female crested geckos can lay eggs without ever being paired with a male! These eggs will be infertile, but laying eggs is a normal part of female crested gecko biology.

Females typically lay two eggs at a time, sometimes approximately every 4–6 weeks during their reproductive season. Individual females vary, and some may lay less frequently.

Providing an egg-laying area:

Females should have access to a suitable place to dig and deposit their eggs. A small container with several inches of slightly moist, diggable substrate, such as coco fiber, works well. The substrate should hold its shape without becoming waterlogged.

Don't forget calcium!

Egg production requires calcium, even when eggs are infertile. A balanced complete gecko diet is important, and appropriately supplemented insects can provide additional nutrition.

Monitor your female's weight and body condition. If she becomes unusually swollen or lethargic, strains, or appears unable to pass an egg, contact a reptile-experienced veterinarian promptly. Egg retention can be serious.

If you don't plan to breed your gecko, there is no reason to pair her with a male. Females can live perfectly healthy lives without ever producing fertile eggs.

Health & General Care

A healthy crested gecko should have clear eyes, a well-filled body, a healthy appetite, and the ability to climb and move normally.

We recommend keeping an eye on your gecko's weight, appetite, and droppings. A small digital gram scale is especially helpful for monitoring growing juveniles.

Contact a reptile-experienced veterinarian if you notice:

  • Significant or unexplained weight loss.

  • Persistent refusal to eat.

  • Swollen limbs or jaw.

  • Difficulty climbing or walking.

  • Unusual lethargy.

  • Breathing difficulties.

  • Signs of egg retention.

Welcome to the World of Crested Geckos!

We think you'll love your crested gecko as much as we love ours! They are fascinating, entertaining, and rewarding reptiles that can make wonderful long-term companions.

Providing a proper enclosure, appropriate temperatures, good nutrition, and the right humidity will give your gecko the foundation it needs to thrive.

At FramsChams, we believe that starting with the right information is one of the most important parts of responsible reptile ownership. If you have questions about your new gecko or its care, please don't hesitate to reach out. We're always happy to help!

 

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